Unpublished Drawings from the Venetian 19th-Century

barche a venezia vervloet800 Unpublished Drawings from the Venetian 19th-Century to Go on View

Francois Vervloet (1795-1872), “Barche a Venezia”. Matita e biacca su carta. Venezia, Museo Correr.

VENICE.- As part of the programme of developing the vast patrimony of its collections, the Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia is presenting a vast exhibition of nineteenth century drawings at the Correr, most of which are on display for the very first time. It includes works by artists such as Caffi, Pividor, Guardi, Moro, Bosa, Vervloet and to name but a few.

Coordinated by Giandomenico Romanelli, the exhibition is installed in the Hall of Honour and the Museum’s large exhibition area on the second floor. They are all in some way connected to Venice: either the subject of the works is Venetian, they were conceived and completed in Venice, or they are about Venice, inspired by the city and its monumental and social aspects as a subject of exercise or poetical sensations.

The Venice that appears in the nineteenth-century drawings of the Correr is surprising: both modern and ancient, distracted and suffering, secret and well-known; it reveals the nerves and muscles of a body in suffering that refuses to yield, full of life and dynamic. Above all, there are outbursts of reality, of what is true, going beyond rhetoric and regrets, beyond nostalgia and laments.

A Venice that is unusual and full of fascination during the years of Ruskin and the first big, controversial restoration projects, the affirmation of tourists seeking sensations that differ from those of the Grand Tour of the Enlightenment.

It is a season of studies and research; a nineteenth century that is starving for history and industry, contradictory and fragile, unsure and headstrong. In a word, Modern.

The collection of drawings from the Venetian nineteenth century at the Correr is one of the biggest on the graphic scene of that century.

It consists in several hundred sheets of different quality and kinds that – maybe because they have been obscured by the fame of the vast collections of drawings from the eighteenth century – have never received the attention they deserved and were thus considered a ‘lesser’ patrimony’ for years and therefore mainly used as a source of documentation.

However, the outstanding importance of these collections gradually became clear from various points of view.

Names: it starts with the youngest (and least skilled) of the Guardi family, Giacomo (1764-1835), who followed in his father’s footsteps and wandered around the city, making hundreds of sketches, impressions, and caricatures until he perfected the view- memory, the “postcard”, with subjects he repeated dozens of times but which became both original and curious with his incessant wanderings in search of a more modern expressive interpretation. Then come the thousands of drawings, both big and small, notes or completed drafts, studies, and details by a famous engraver and illustrator, Giovanni Pividor (1812-1872) who creates a Venice, with its corners and its architecture, an inexhaustible reportage: a meticulousness bordering on the obsessive, light as a feather, or structured and pictorial in “fine” inks as is the case in his rich album “Souvenir de Venise”, most of which has never been published.

We then come to the great Ippolito Caffi (1809-1866), both resurgent and heroic, in love with ‘people’: commoners resting, Austrian police, sailors waiting to be signed up, someone from the Orient, masks: Venice that is both supine and inclined to outbursts of pride, during the nineteenth century when she was both skinflint and servile, seeking redemption in jeers and gestures of rebellion. Sketchbooks with watercolours and veduta barely outlined on the small forerunners of today’s moleskins, memories, the notes of a great landscape painter who had freed himself of ‘eighteenth-century’ fascination.

A novelty (at least for the wider public) is the collection of over two hundred drawings by the Flemish artist François Vervloet (1795-1872). Seduced by the camera obscura, the urban landscape, ’objective vedutism’, he tackled Rome with the landscape of the Nordic Pensionnaires (French, Danes, Germans and Scandinavians), and in Naples with what was almost the naive landscape of the South, as well as with the odd, eccentric Englishman. He arrived in Venice – where he was also to die – in 1872, leaving not only his drawings but also a detailed personal diary of great interest, in which he jotted down what was both important and trivial, meetings, exchanges of opinion, and experiences at the art markets. Vervloet did not limit himself to glimpses and views: he would enter sacristies, study relics and candelabras, or outline a gilded hedgehog or marble volute.

Another novelty that is not to be missed is the drawings and watercolours by Eugenio Bosa (1807-1875). No veduta or monuments but a city made of beggars and fishermen, misery and suffering, one glass too many to forget hunger, an argument outside someone’s home, but also the odd moments of rest and tranquillity: a trip to the Lido, having a chat next to a well-head, a dog playing, children laughing and crying, the lottery being drawn in Saint Mark’s Square, winners and losers in annual rowing races.

Other artists appear with smaller amounts of material but of increasing breadth. They include Luigi Querena (1820-1887) who specialises in a particular genre, short lived but extremely successful: panoramas, the 360° perspective portrayals of a city or landscape, or historical events, which were to reach its height of success in the early and middle nineteenth century, in France, Belgium and England especially.

Finally, thanks to the great generosity of a private collector, there is one more novelty: around eight unpublished drawings in pencil by Giacomo Favretto (1849-1887) reveal the fleeting details, glimpses, secret portraits, impressions jotted down unseen in the Venetian cafés, in other words, in places of socialisation and learning (reading the newspapers, the Gazettes, magazines, literature), places for prudent political activities, or rather, weaving plots, spying, seduction and betrayals. Not only the important Cafés in Saint Mark’s Square (Florian, Quadri, Aurora and Vittoria) but also in the Giardini and Giardinetti, Caffè Orientale and many other places that made the history of this city – and not always in unimportant things, for example the Biennale.

by www.artdaily.org

Venice Losing Residents But Not Dead Yet

ITALY DECLINING VENICEFew call Venice home, but it’s not history, either

VENICE, Italy — A dozen gondolas snaked down the Grand Canal on Saturday in a mock funeral procession bemoaning Venice’s approach to the dreaded status of living museum, with a population now below 60,000.
While the largely symbolic threshold is considered by some to signal the end of the city’s viability, Venetian officials say reports of Venice’s demise are premature, and even Saturday’s somber funeral ended with a surprise, bright hope for rebirth.
In fact, while native Venetians have been fleeing the expensive lagoon city for cheaper and easier living on the mainland, the population of the historic center was officially 60,025 as of Thursday, up from the 59,992 it had fallen to in recent weeks.
“They will have the funeral in a living village, not yet dead. And it won’t die, even if it goes to 59,999,” Mara Rumiz, the city official in charge of demographics, said in a telephone interview Friday.
She said the numbers don’t take into account the inhabitants of Venice’s islands — including glassmaking Murano and the Lido beach — nor the many who are not officially registered, including students. Together, they add another 120,000 souls.
But Venice must still resist becoming merely a tourist destination, Rumiz said.
“It is evident that Venice has to safeguard its residents and attract new inhabitants. If not, we risk that Venice becomes only a tourist mecca, and this is a destiny that we don’t want,” Rumiz said.
While wandering the narrow alleys and waterways of Venice is a tourist’s delight, life in Venice is for the hardy and financially resilient.
Housing costs and rents drop to as much as a third in the nearby city of Marghera. And consider the logistics of an everyday errand like grocery shopping. One would likely need a water taxi ride to a supermarket, another to get home with the groceries, and then with few elevators in residential buildings, there is a heavy load to lug upstairs. Historic Venice does not permit the comfort of a car parked outside the door.
Yet as if to echo Rumiz’s optimism about Venice’s fate, Saturday’s mock funeral ended with an unexpected bright look to the future.
The ceremony kicked off with an aquatic procession of gondolas — led by a pink one carrying a flower-draped coffin — down the inverted S-shaped canal. The boats docked in front of Ca’ Farsetti, the palazzo housing Venice’s City Hall, where hundreds of Venetians joined the procession.
But after a black-caped actor read poetry in Venetian dialect bemoaning the problems of life in the lagoon city, the funeral’s “pallbearers” smashed open the coffin and pulled out a flag of La Fenice — phoenix in Italian — the mythical winged creature that rises from ashes and is a symbol of rebirth.
The significance of the phoenix is particularly acute for Venetians, since their own La Fenice opera house rose from its own ashes and reopened in 2003 after being destroyed by a fire set by electricians in 1996.
After the surprise ending, participants uncorked sparkling wine to toast Venice’s rebirth and hope for the future.
Venetians themselves would like to see more money put toward retaining natives, and are critical of such projects as the new Calatrava Bridge over the Grand Canal. Building the bridge, designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, ran well over projected costs while doing little to ease the lives of average Venetians.
“People go to live where you don’t have to spend too much,” city resident Alberto Gallo said. “Many would like to remain, but they can’t.”
The city’s population declined by a steep 100,000 from the 1950s to the 1980s, making today’s fluctuations minimal by comparison.
“In all, fewer people are leaving than those who are arriving,” Rumiz said, but “fewer children are being born in respect to the people who die.”
“What is changing is the social base of Venice,” she said, explaining that most of the people who are leaving are older while those arriving are “more educated and with better skills.”
But who is a Venetian, really? Genetically, a National Geographic Study being conducted by experts from the Worcester Polytechnic Institute in Massachusetts intend to find out.
They took advantage of Saturday’s “funeral” to take saliva swabs to determine where most of the natives of Veneto — the larger region of which Venice is the capital — came from, northern Europe or lands around the Caspian Sea.
“It will be an opportunity to find a few Venetians,” said Gallo, who is helping to organize the study.
Associated Press Writer Colleen Barry reported from Milan.

By COLLEEN BARRY and LUIGI COSTANTINI (AP)

Carnival Masks and Where to Eat & Stay in Venice

venice-carnivalCarnival Masks and Where to Eat & Stay in Venice, Italy

Want to relive 18th-century Venice? If you visit Venice along with thousands of other tourists during Carnival, you’ll experience one of the world’s irresistible attractions. Walkways are filled with crowds of mask-wearing characters headed to the next party.

The mysterious, beautiful Venetian mask, created by the “mascareria,” is a 300-year-old tradition. Take a gondola to the San Basilio Vaperetto stop to visit Carta Alta Laboratorio. Watch artisans at work, making each mask by hand from start to finish.

At Campo Santa Margherita, you can shop for freshly baked olive bread, fish, fresh fruit, herbs and your choice of the best pizza in the city. Follow the college students to Pizza al Volo, with prices averaging 2 euros. Nightlife? Hang out at one of the hip cafes or bars until the early hours.

Located in a quiet area in Venice’s historic district, recently renovated Residenza Ca’ San Marco (Calle de le Balote), built in part of an ancient monastery near San Marco Square, offers air-conditioned double rooms from 60 Euros, including breakfast, wireless internet and friendly staff.

Closer to home, at La Mano Mask and Costume Shop, 1298-G Prospect Street, La Jolla, Lydia Castillo sells authentic handmade Venetian masks, Italian glass and Venetian Murine.

By Bonnie Maffei sandiegoreader.com

VIVA Italy

giorgia_boscoloViva Italia!

We can’t get enough of all things Italian– especially when it comes to food and wine
When it comes to Italy, I am a woman obsessed. The language, food, wine, film, fashion–I love it all. Give me half a million dollars (I’ll settle for less), and I’d probably find a way to buy a place there–if I could only decide what corner of paradise I’d want to settle in. Tuscany? Rome? Umbria? Venice? So many beautiful places to choose from.

Vuoi sapere come vincere al blackjack? Studia le regole del blackjack, impara il glossario del blackjack e scopri le possibilita’ del blackjack online!

I’m not alone. Google the word “Italophile”–someone who greatly admires the Italian language, culture and people–and you’ll find at least 132,000 references.

Our wine shops are loaded with Italian wines; our bookstores are filled with Italian cookbooks. (At least five lovely new ones have landed on my desk this fall.)

Across North America, thousands of people are dreaming of La Dolce Vita. For many of us, the good life, it seems, will always be defined by Italy.

But why?Why has this one tiny, crowded country (population 58 million, spread over 301,230 square kilometres–less than half the size of Alberta) captivated so many Canadians?

Much of it has to do with food and drink, say Calgarians who share my passion.

“It’s about family and shared experiences,” says Allan Shewchuk, a Calgary lawyer.

“That’s what I love about Italians. Go there, and you can make an instant friend just by asking what the local specialty is. You’ll have an hour-long conversation about the Parmesan cheese or the prosciutto or the asparagus or whatever.”

Ah, right. The food. It always comes back to the food.

Shewchuk isn’t Italian, but he has definitely built a reputation as a local Italophile. Not only has he been to Italy more than 20 times, he has been teaching Italian cooking classes at the Cookbook Co. Cooks for the past 14 years.

This year, he skipped a trip to Italy, and instead went to Ethiopia. What did he find? Everywhere, reminders of Italy: excellent coffee (grown in Ethiopia, but made Italian-style), pasta and more. (Italian companies have done trade with Ethiopia since the 1870s, and Italy occupied the country from 1935 to 1941, hence the lasting cultural influences.)

“They serve spaghetti on top of their injera, (the) flatbread they eat in Ethiopia,” he says.

“I talked to a cooking class in Addis Ababa (Ethiopia’s capital city); they went wild for my bruschetta . . . and the main shopping district in Addis is called Piazza.”

Shewchuk’s next trip? Sicily, in February. “It’s my 50th birthday. I have to be on Italian soil.”

We’re not saying Calgary’s a lousy place to be. Not at all. Just ask Dario Berloni, the owner of Teatro and the newly opened Vendome cafe in Sunnyside. Born in Italy, he moved to Canada in 1982, and now splits his time between Calgary and Italy.

And he loves them both –Italy, because of “the sea, the hills, the countryside, the people, the lifestyle, all those things,” he says.

And Calgary, because people are friendly, kind and polite, he says.

“Calgary means a lot to me, and I love the place and the friends I have and the things I do here.”

Of course, no discussion of Italy’s contribution to Calgary–and, for that matter, the world–is complete without mentioning the wine. Franca Bellusci, who is of Italian heritage and married to an Italian, opened a wine store that specializes in Italian wines in Bridgeland in 1999. Earlier this year, she moved the shop to a big, bright new location in Aspen Estates, one of the city’s newest neighbourhoods.

Despite the move and the economy, business is still booming, she says, partly because of the calibre of Italian products, and the care that goes into making them.

“I truly believe that we still love Italian food, wine, fashion, whatever it is, because they deliver quality,” says Bellusci. “What they make is from the heart.”

Quality. Accessibility. A relaxed pace and a variety of great tastes. Works for me.

I know I’ll be cooking Italian-inspired dishes at least one night, probably more, this week–a lovely way to end a day that I’ve likely started with a cappuccino. And on the way home from work, I’ll be listening to my Italian language CDs in the car.

True, I don’t have any return trips planned–yet.

But, like Berloni, I hope I will. Soon.

“What is there not to love about Italy?” Berloni says with a laugh. “If you visit Italy, then you are captivated for the rest of your life.”

sboettcher@theherald. canwest.com