Death in Venice Venetians to Stage Their Own Funeral Venetians Say Dwindling Population,

vista-su-canaleThe clock is ticking for Venice, one of the most beautiful cities in the world, as the city’s population slowly declines.
One of the most populated cities in the world in the 16th century, now the number of residents has dropped to under 60,000 and with an average of up to 150,000 tourists visiting each day Venetians are feeling outnumbered and fear they will soon be squeezed out. A Venetian community group even has plans to stage a funeral for Venice to provoke officials into saving the city.

This jewel of a city, with its romantic views of canals, bridges and gondolas, has enough problems surviving as it slowly sinks into the Venetian Lagoon. That problem always seems to be put off and never properly tackled.
Esteemed international experts somberly predict the city’s demise while Venetians wring their hands in despair. A few of these even envision apocalyptical scenes of the last few “real Venetians” caged on show in Piazza San Marco or of gates clanging shut at night after the straggling tourists on their day-passes exit the artistic wonderland.
Venice’s city hall sends out a continuous battle cry – “Stop the city from sinking! Stop the flooding! Stop the exodus of Venetians! Stop the old palazzi from crumbling! Stop the day trippers! Stop the rich foreigners buying up the palaces as investments! Stop the pigeons! Stop the beggars!” — as it tries to raise more funds to save Venice and preserve its artistic heritage while desperately keeping in step with modern times.

It launched a public Wi-Fi system in July and in a baffling move has just announced that the city will formally bid for the 2020 Olympics.

But some Venetians feel not enough is being done to save the dwindling population and have started to take action.

Andrea Morelli’s family has owned the pharmacy in campo San Bartolomeo which dates back to the 16th century in the heart of Venice for over a century. He has placed a “Venetian resident counter” in his shop window to get Venetians motivated.
The counter is updated regularly with the city’s official data of how many Venetians are resident in the city. Today the digital luminous counter shows 59,984; when it was installed in March 2008 it showed 60,704. “I feel a bit sad,” Morelli said, when he looks at the digital counter each day. “But I see it as something that should also stimulate us to do something. Venetians who come into the pharmacy always cast a glance at the figure and my shop has become a sort of forum, a place to come and debate about the future of Venice.”
Several leading community groups have formed recently to unite Venetians wishing to improve their city and are all fueled by active Web sites.

The idea of the digital resident counter was dreamed up by the Venessia.com supporters, an online group dedicated to protecting the “Venetian way of life.”

Launched by Stefano Soffiato nine years ago as his personal site where he commented on what he saw around him in Venice during his daily life, the site now gets up to 8,000 hits a day. It has spawned a forum with 900 Venetian citizens as members.

The group will meet in a bar this week to put the final touches on its latest enterprise: the staging of a funeral for Venice along the Grand Canal, complete with coffin, drums and funeral oration.

The water-convoy of boats will float down the Grand Canal from the station area, Piazzale Roma to the Rialto bridge where it will stop in front of the city hall. A gondola will dramatically lead the procession bearing a symbolic coffin painted in shocking pink fuchsia.

“I’ve made the coffin already – it’s my size!” says Stefano, laughing. He sounded amused as he explained, “I think we will be greeted by women wearing black. But we don’t want a sad event. We plan on being reborn after the funeral!”

“Yes of course it’s a provocation”, he admits, “but if we didn’t do this funeral or put the resident counter in the window nobody would notice that Venice is slowly declining as well as changing. If the Venetians leave Venice, Venice will disappear and all that will remain is a Disneyland.”
The hope is that the city council will be moved to take measures to stop the exodus and entice back the Venetians who have fled to the mainland.
We hope to arrive in front of the city hall and find hundreds of Venetians there waiting for us,” says Matteo Secchi, another Venessia.com member, “We want everyone to understand that behind the postcard of Venice – the gondola and the canals and all the romanticism – there is a decimated population. Venice is a special place.” “The socio-economic fabric of the city has been destroyed,” continues Secchi. “It has just become full of hotels, restaurants, and mask and glass shops. The politicians must put a stop to this. What they do is just special effects – new bridges and stuff like that – but they have forgotten the inhabitants of this place. In the last five years the city has not inaugurated one new residence for Venetians, there are 5,000 unrented houses in the city and 2,500 people on a list awaiting public housing.”

Venetians increasingly find their daily activities impeded by the throngs that visit each day.
“This is a truly pedestrian city and the beauty of any city is when one can walk about freely and admire its beauty,” says Soffiato. He remembers the Venice he grew up in: “We felt like the city belonged to us and I think the tourists felt special then; now we feel more like outsiders”.

Then again, says Soffiato, “all you have to do is avoid the ‘off limits’ areas around the tourist attractions like St. Marks square, and step into a small alley along a canal to see the old people in the streets and the children playing safely. That Venice still exists!”

Morelli says city administrators haven’t done enough for the city. He thinks more should be done to target “real culture” and dreams of a real living university campus in Venice that would attract young people to live here and “who knows, maybe become Venetian citizens one day!” But he sighs when he admits that most students couldn’t afford to live in Venice today even if they could find a place.

Strangely, many Venetians are not totally opposed to the idea of bringing something as huge and disruptive such as the Olympics to Venice. “If it brought funds and modern structures to Venice and helped us with our transport system, which is one of our biggest problems, it could do a lot for this city,” says Morelli. The city council insists it is doing what it can with the reduced funds at its disposal.
The negative demographic balance is mainly because the number of people who die is greater than the births, the city council says. And the city is trying to coordinate tourist flows to stop Venice from being overrun on certain days. This January they inaugurated www.veniceconnected.com, an online booking site, aimed at helping visitors get discounts if they plan their holiday in advance.

When the number of Venice residents slipped under the 60,000 mark last week, the mayor, Massimo Cacciari, seemed unconcerned. “So what’s new?” he exclaimed, “There’s no difference between 60,000 inhabitants and 59,999.”

But many Venetians say that there is, and are rallying to do something about it.

source abcnews.go.com

Venice replacing historic lagoon poles

venice-5Venice considers replacing historic lagoon poles
Looming out of the swirling mist thousands of wooden stakes which dot Venice’s lagoon present an unforgettable sight to the first time visitor.

By Nick Squires in Rome

The authorities in Venice are looking at installing plastic poles, made out of recycled waste, which they say last much longer and cost less to maintain than their wooden equivalents Photo: GETTY
Boats and ferries snake between the treacherous sandbanks and shoals thanks to them, but the poles, which are a key component of the city’s traditional image along with gondolas and St Mark’s Square, could now be replaced.
The authorities in Venice are looking at installing plastic poles, made out of recycled waste, which they say last much longer and cost less to maintain than their wooden equivalents.

Critics of the move say it will bring to an end centuries of heritage and that the plastic poles will be much less picturesque than the old, barnacle-clad timber ones, of which there are estimated to be nearly 100,000.
It is the latest chapter in the decades-old saga over how to reconcile the history and heritage of one of the world’s most beautiful cities with the practicalities of day-to-day life.
The idea of introducing the plastic poles has been put forward by Venice’s city council, which says that in an average year it has to replace at least 150 posts at a cost of 400,000 euros (£362,000).
“We have hundreds of wooden poles which are rotting away, there are entire forests of them,” said Mara Rumiz, the city official in charge of public works.
But the provincial government is opposed to the idea and says the plastic poles are more suited to the sort of pastiche, theme park versions of Venice that have sprouted in places like Dubai, China and the US.
“Visitors will have the impression of a plastic Venice, not dissimilar to the one which exists in Las Vegas,” Francesca Zaccariotto, the president of the province of Venice, told Corriere della Sera newspaper.
Historically the Most Serene Republic of Venice, which was an independent state for more than 1,000 years, imposed the death penalty on anyone who planted navigation poles without permission, she claimed.
“So the administrators of Venice Council, who today want to replace the traditional wooden poles with industrially manufactured plastic ones, are lucky to live in the modern age instead of back then,” she joked.
Timber merchants who supply the city are anxious that they will lose their livelihoods and say that instead of introducing plastic poles, Venice should introduce stakes made of more durable types of wood.
“From the tropics to the Caribbean, people use wood that is resistant to parasites. It’s natural and it costs 30 per cent less than plastic poles,” said Alessandro Calcaterra, the owner of a local timber firm, Northern Wood.
The neighbouring region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia recently bought 10,000 hard-wearing wooden stakes to replace deteriorating chestnut poles, said Pietro Pizzardi, a contractor who specialises in the building of marinas and ports.
Hardwoods from South American countries like Guyana were particularly long-lasting, he said. “If nature has offered us a natural product, which costs less than a plastic pole, what’s the sense in using a synthetic product?”
The plastic poles are not the only threat to the integrity and long-term survival of “La Serenissima”.
The population has halved in the past 40 years, from 120,000 in 1966 to 60,000, making the impact of the annual influx of 20 million tourists all the more overwhelming.
Rising sea levels, more frequent storms and the sinking of the lagoon bed threaten to submerge Venice beneath the waves.
There is an impassioned debate about whether the World Heritage Site’s dwindling number of residents can withstand the onslaught of mass tourism, or whether the city is destined to become a cultural Disneyland in which normal life is all but impossible.
source telegraph.co.uk

Visiting Venice with kayak

Kayaking in Venice: who needs a gondola?Forget water taxis and tourist rides, if you want a fresh perspective on La Serenissima, jump in a kayak and paddle up to St Mark’s Square

kayaking-in-veniceIt’s rush hour and there’s a traffic jam on the Grand Canal. Popping out into the canal from one of the narrower waterways is a trio of gondolas; hurtling towards them is the number-one vaporetto (water bus) loaded with its summer cargo. So far so familiar, but in the midst of this waterborne whirl of gondolas, buses, taxis, pleasure and motorboats there’s me, in a kayak, with a honking, crane-bearing delivery boat up my backside.

Spying what I thought was an available gap I’d sneaked into it so I could take some photos – but I’d parked in front of a restaurant and there was a Coke fridge to deliver. Under the watchful eye of the deliveryman, and scores of tourists peering down at us from the Rialto bridge, I began to manoeuvre out, using my paddle as a rudder to sharpen the turn. As I started the home run towards René, my kayak guide waiting for me on the other side of the bridge, my biceps felt like they’d done three rounds on a cheese grater. But I did it, without crashing or crying, and even got a wink of approval from the deliveryman – high praise indeed in Venice.

Unlikely though Venice by kayak sounds, it really is possible. My fellow kayaker Brian, the most diminutive and softly spoken Texan one could hope to meet – and who had never set foot in a kayak before – was living proof that a sense of adventure and an affinity with water counts far more than bulging biceps (although you might have them by the time you’ve finished). But don’t just rock up with an inflatable, as some fools have done. Go with someone who knows and respects the city, understands the vagaries of its weather and tides and, most importantly, obeys the waterways’ unwritten rules.

With his Venetian colleague Marco, René Seindal, a strapping Dane who has made Venice his home by marrying his passion for rowing with a canny business venture, offers day trips and night paddles, lagoon tours and week-long tailored trips. Their base is at Camping San Nicolò, a pretty, well-run campsite at the western end of the Lido, and an eight-minute bus ride from the island’s vaporetto terminal. The Lido is a good springboard into the rest of the lagoon, while Venice itself is only a half-hour paddle away.

René reads Venice’s maps by its canals. “I get lost on the streets but not down here,” he told me, reassuringly. I’m with him. Having spent weeks veneziacombing its tangle of streets like a blind, spatially challenged beetle I found meandering along Venice’s canals in a kayak serene in the extreme. The price tag for the equivalent number of hours in a gondola would run into thousands – captain of your kayak, €100 per day; 40 minutes on a gondola, €80 – but the freedom to linger by this bridge, or that moss-slicked palazzo, is priceless.

Things rarely got as hairy as my Rialto three-point turn – unless you count the incident when, after butting a moored gondola just in front of the Bridge of Sighs and ricocheting into the wall (sorry, Unesco) I sat trapped in a strong current like a lemon, until a kindly gondolier gave me a shove with his oar.

We shared the canals with police boats, fire engines, funeral hearses, ambulances, taxis and, early one morning, the bin men (tanned and Ray-Ban Aviator-chic) – the workaday Venetians that keep the city ticking over. Roaming the rii (smaller canals), we paddled with gondoliers who didn’t mind us – we shared the same foe: moto ondoso, or the wake caused by motorcraft – and started to recognise Venice for what it is: an archipelago of tiny islands linked by bridges.

One afternoon we paddled right into San Marco and bobbed about in a “safe zone” near the Doge’s Palace, grinning at the cheek of it. Between paddling there were the obligatory gelato stops, lazy lunches and conversations with Brian about why he has never heard of JR or Dallas.

Besides the obvious appeal of kayaking the canals of Venice, there’s the entire lagoon to paddle in. A refreshing contrast to the constraints of the city, the lagoon’s wide-open shallows also offer a fresh perspective on Venice itself – one small if significant piece of an aquatic jigsaw.

venice_gondola“Most people visit Venice and think they’ve seen the city but there’s a thousand years of history right here,” said René, running the gloopy silt of the lagoon floor though his fingers as we paddled out from the kayak base on the Lido one morning. “This is the mud Venice was built on.”

Part lake, part estuary, part sea, the lagoon is fed by the Adriatic via three inlets and comprises thousands of acres of mud flats and salt marshes speckled with islands – some inhabited; others deserted and littered with curious military installations, forgotten island monasteries, isolation hospitals and lunatic asylums. Tricky to reach as a tourist, the islands are blissfully accessible by kayak. On spooky Madonna del Monte, we scrambled through brambles and undergrowth to reach the sprawling shell of a monastery being slowly reclaimed by nature.

At the other extreme, on tiny, tranquil San Francesco del Deserto, we wandered through a manicured oasis of cypresses to reach a medieval monastery in far better nick. After being guided round by a Fransiscan brother – the order that has inhabited the island since the 12th century – we sat in its gardens eating peaches.

The Venetian lagoon is one of the world’s most famous under threat eco-systems, being transformed by erosion, high waters and wave motion. Yet it is home to egrets, wading birds, butterflies, frogs and even the occasional hidden beach. Out here, in its endless shallows, you can recline on your kayak in silence, and pick out the runway at Marco Polo airport (flanked on a clear day by the shadowy hulk of the Dolomites) or Venice herself, identifiable by her comically crooked campanile piercing the sky.

Venice’s legendary weather fronts added an extra dimension, and although bent on outsmarting the forecasters, René’s scientific gadgets cut us little slack in the occasional thunderstorm that threw us off course. Paddling furiously under the brooding skies of an approaching storm towards a horizon fired by lightening was matched only by the surprise on Brian’s face on being slapped round the chops by a fish that jumped our kayaks one sultry afternoon.

One evening we paddled to the market-garden island of Vignole for squid-ink spaghetti and a side order of sunset at Trattoria Alle Vignole (              +39 041 5289707         +39 041 5289707) before heading into Venice for a night tour of the city. The canals were practically ours, and as I peered into windows and down cramped canyons I snatched glimpses of another Venice: a man in underpants brushing his teeth, an illuminated ceiling fresco, a cassocked friar dribbling a football. Just after midnight we were back on the Grand Canal. The gondolas, vaporettos and all of Venice was sleeping and for the half hour or so that it took us to paddle down it we were kings of the canal, commanding the stage in the greatest show on Earth.

Becoming part of the show is a curious flipside of kayaking around Venice. Locals stared, tourists took photos and strangers shouted “Where can we rent the kayaks?” As we left San Marco via the Bridge of Sighs after our thrilling 20-minute bob, I was distracted by a small hand poking venice-5through one of the stone grills, to wave at me. The enclosed bridge gave prisoners their last tantalising glimpse of Venice before being led to their cells in the Doge’s Palace. Craning my neck in search of a face I waved back – and crashed into a gondola.

The Venetian lagoon is one of the world’s most famous under threat eco-systems, being transformed by erosion, high waters and wave motion. Yet it is home to egrets, wading birds, butterflies, frogs and even the occasional hidden beach. Out here, in its endless shallows, you can recline on your kayak in silence, and pick out the runway at Marco Polo airport (flanked on a clear day by the shadowy hulk of the Dolomites) or Venice herself, identifiable by her comically crooked campanile piercing the sky.

Venice’s legendary weather fronts added an extra dimension, and although bent on outsmarting the forecasters, René’s scientific gadgets cut us little slack in the occasional thunderstorm that threw us off course. Paddling furiously under the brooding skies of an approaching storm towards a horizon fired by lightening was matched only by the surprise on Brian’s face on being slapped round the chops by a fish that jumped our kayaks one sultry afternoon.

Venice for a night tour of the city. The canals were practically ours, and as I peered into windows and down cramped canyons I snatched glimpses of another Venice: a man in underpants brushing his teeth, an illuminated ceiling fresco, a cassocked friar dribbling a football. Just after midnight we were back on the Grand Canal. The gondolas, vaporettos and all of Venice was sleeping and for the half hour or so that it took us to paddle down it we were kings of the canal, commanding the stage in the greatest show on Earth.

Becoming part of the show is a curious flipside of kayaking around Venice. Locals stared, tourists took photos and strangers shouted “Where can we rent the kayaks?” As we left San Marco via the Bridge of Sighs after our thrilling 20-minute bob, I was distracted by a small hand poking through one of the stone grills, to wave at me. The enclosed bridge gave prisoners their last tantalising glimpse of Venice before being led to their cells in the Doge’s Palace. Craning my neck in search of a face I waved back – and crashed into a gondola.

from THE GUARDIAN

Spot Videocracy banned from Rai and Mediaset

Both RAI and Mediaset ban spots for ‘Videocracy’
Doc links Italy’s cultural decay to Berlusconi empire

By MICHAEL DAY

Videocracy_posterWhen the Mediaset TV empire controlled by Italo Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi banned spots for Swedish-Italian helmer Erik Gandini’s “Videocracy,” hardly anyone blinked.
After all, the doc, which unspooled at the Venice film fest, links moral and cultural decay in Italy with the rise of Berlusconi’s TV channels.

However, eyebrows began to rise when pubcaster RAI also refused to play the trailers, deeming the pic “offensive to the honor and personal reputation of the prime minister.” The move fueled suspicions that Berlusconi was leaning on the state-run broadcaster, whose governors are his political appointees.

Absent the ability to promote the film on Italy’s main TV channels, Gandini is largely left preaching to the converted rather than drawing in more mainstream auds.

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Gandini has said the film was prompted by his experience of foreigners sniggering at Berlusconi’s astonishing degree of control over Italians’ access to information.

Auds will now have to discover for themselves how wide that control really extends.

by VARIETY.COM